Shelter on the Hill: A Humane Society

Training Tips

How to Stuff a Kong

How to Stuff a Kong

A Kong is a hard rubber, toy with a small hole on top and a large one on the bottom. A stuffed Kong can keep your dog occupied when crated or when you have visitors. It can provide mental stimulation and provide an outlet for your dog's energy. And this wonderful chew toy can go a long way toward alleviating mild separation issues and boredom just give a stuffed Kong to your dog as you leave, or hide it so he has to find it and then excavate. (Be sure to provide stuffed Kongs randomly, not only when you leave, so they won't become associated only with your absence.)

Be sure to purchase a Kong that is big enough to stuff. Tiny dogs get a small Kong, but most small dogs get a medium Kong, medium dogs, a large or XL, and large dogs, an XL. They come in different colors. Black for your heavy chewers, or strong jaws, red for your everyday average chewers, and pink or blue for your puppies and senior patients. Kongs can be stuffed with anything that is safe for your dog to eat. ( Never feed chocolate, onions, grapes, raisins, or spicy foods.) Just plug the small hole with a chewy treat or peanut butter, flip the Kong over, and stuff! The stuffing should be well-packed so that your dog has to work for it, but not so tightly stuffed that your dog will give up. For inexperienced excavators, make it easy at first by packing loosely and leaving a cookie sticking out of the large hole.

To feed your dog's meal in the Kong:

  1. Measure out your dog's kibble.
  2. Fill the small hole with peanut butter, cheese or a soft dog treat. Flip the Kong upside down.
  3. Scoop a teaspoon of canned dog food into the large hole. Then, add a layer of your dog's kibble.
  4. Repeat step 3 until you reach the top, ending in a layer of canned food.
  5. Pour leftover kibble in a dish and place the stuffed Kong on top. (This is also helpful for dogs who eat their food too fast, or eat theirs and then try to steal another dog's food.)

Suggestions for frozen Kongs that last even longer... Kongsicles!
  • If you have a puppy, moisten his kibble with water, stuff it in the Kong, and freeze it overnight. He'll have a fun, energy-expending breakfast the following morning.
  • Try various combinations of canned food, gravy, noodles, rice and mashed potatoes mixed with kibble, and freeze.
  • Put a dab of peanut butter in the small hole. Turn the Kong upside down in a cup. Fill full of water, chicken broth or fruit juice and freeze. (Liquid-only frozen Kongsicles recommended for outdoor use.)

If you're in a rush - a fast and easy way to stuff a Kong is to fill it with dog cookies and hot dogs. Squeeze the large opening so it elongates, then stuff with hot dog bits and cookies. The cookies should be just big enough to fit through the elongated hole. If you wish, finish with a bit of peanut butter smeared around the inside of the opening.

Banana Surprise - Plug up the small hole. Then stuff part of a slightly overripe banana (½ banana for XL Kong, less for smaller sizes), then a few dog treats or cookies, then plain yogurt. Freeze. Dogs love it!

Kongs are dishwasher safe. Experiment and create your own recipes!

Tami Kearney
Mtn Top K-9 Training

Crate Training/Housebreaking

What is Crate Training?

Tami and dogs

Crate training is the process of conditioning your dog to accept being in a crate, which will eventually become his own den. Crate training is used for a variety of reasons: it is an effective tool for housebreaking, and gives your dog a safe, secure place of his own. Having a dog who is comfortable being crated is also useful for confinement for short periods when necessary, for safe transportation via car or plane, and for keeping a dog calm and confined when recovering from surgery.

Dogs have a natural instinct not to soil where they sleep, and this is what makes crate training such an effective housebreaking tool as well.

What Type and Size of Crate will I Need?

There are two main types of crates. The better choice is the hard plastic kind that consists of a top and bottom that snap together, has ventilated slats on the sides, and a metal grille door. There are also crates made of heavy gauge wire that fold down into a suitcase shape. These are NOT approved for airline use, but some people prefer them for heavy-coated breeds because they offer better ventilation. Both can get costly, but the investment is well worth it in the long run. A damaged carpet alone would cost you more to replace!

The crate should be just big enough for your dog to stand up and turn around in. If your dog is a puppy, do NOT buy a huge crate for him to grow into. Having all that room will defeat the purpose. You may need to buy a puppy-sized crate now and a larger one later or purchase a crate that comes with dividers so you can gradually expand the puppy's space as needed.

Is Crate Training for Adult Dogs, too?

Yes, absolutely! Many people are under the false impression that crate training is just for puppies, and that older dogs will not take to a crate. Untrue! Older dogs often learn faster than puppies, and most will appreciate the comfort and security a crate offers.

How do I Introduce my Dog to the Crate?

Put a blanket or old sweatshirt that has your scent on it in the bottom of the crate. This will not only be comfortable for your dog, but helps the bonding process as well. (Note: There are some dogs who will urinate if soft bedding is present; if this is the case with your dog, remove the bedding altogether.) Keep the crate where you want your dog to sleep, for example, by the side of your bed. When you first introduce the crate, be sure the door is propped open so as to not swing shut by accident. If your dog doesn't go in to explore on his own, toss treats inside, or feed a few meals in there. Try not to force your dog into the crate (this could form an unpleasant association and make things more difficult for both of you). Each time your dog goes into the crate, say, Go to bed or kennel in a high, pleasant voice. Your dog will eventually come to associate the verbal cue with going into the crate.

The first night, say, Go to bed or kennel as you gently help your dog in, then softly close the door. You may want to put a toy in with him. It is perfectly normal for a dog to whine, bark, or even throw tantrums the first night in a crate. Do NOT reward the behavior by petting your dog, whispering soothing words, or worse, by letting him out. Try simply ignoring him for a while. If he doesn't stop after a reasonable amount of time, simply say, No in a firm voice, or tap the top of the crate and say, Quiet. Just don't get into the cycle of your dog whining and you saying, Quiet each time, thereby reinforcing the behavior by responding to it at all. There are some dogs who will have trouble holding their bladder all night (usually young pups). You will quickly come to know the difference between a normal whine and a need-to-urinate whine. If the whining becomes frantic during the night, open the crate door, pick your dog up, and bring him out to the spot where you want him to eliminate. As he does, praise him in a high, happy voice, then immediately return him to the crate. Most dogs get used to this routine very quickly and soon sleep through the night without interruption.

Daily Routine

First thing in the morning, open the crate door and carry your dog to the preferred elimination spot. (If you let him walk out on his own he might urinate before making it to the door.) As soon as your dog begins to circle and sniff, or otherwise indicates that he is about to potty, use a soft verbal coaxing, Go potty! Over time, by repeating your instruction just before he urinates, your dog will eventually become conditioned to urinate upon hearing your verbal cue. (Use the verbal cue each time you take your dog out to potty, just be sure to wait for signs that he is about to go before you say it.) When he goes, reward lavishly with a little play and a few treats. After the morning elimination, either place your dog in a baby-gated area such as the kitchen, or keep him with you, tethered to you with a long line or tethered to a nearby piece of furniture where he'll be within your sight. Do not let your dog out of your sight, as accidents happen in a split second; you need to be there to interrupt as they happen. Your dog can also be crated for brief periods during the day if you are unable to keep an eye on him, for example, if you need to take a shower.

If you notice your dog starting to circle and sniff or squat, startle him with a sharp verbal, Eh-eh! (or if necessary, by clapping your hands), then quickly bring him to the proper elimination spot. If he goes, don't forget the praise! If you find an accident that has already happened, consider it your own mistake and clean it up quietly. A dog will not associate a correction with what he did wrong if it's after the fact. Take your dog out to eliminate upon waking after naps, after meals, after playtime, and before bedtime. That means standing outside with him so you can praise him when he goes, as opposed to letting him out and assuming he's done his business.

If you must leave the house, you can leave your dog crated up to 3-6 hours at a time, depending on age. This will prevent housebreaking accidents as well as preventing unwanted chewing or destruction. Potty your pup before placing him in the crate, and place a favorite safe toy or bone in the crate with him.

Once your dog is housebroken, you can still use the crate for confinement periods if necessary. Many people end up taking the door off the crate entirely, and their dogs still sleep, hang out, and take refuge in their dens. Crate training is well worth the time and investment, and giving this permanent place of safety and comfort to your dog is really a gift to you both.

Tami Kearney
Mtn Top K-9 Training